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Using POR 15 tank sealer on a 47 B

4K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  Richardmo 
#1 ·
Anyone have much experience with this product? Im tired of my carb gumming up and filling my crankcase with gas. I figured it was time to fix this right. The Napa fuel filters don't seem to hold back the fine rust particles and the valve on my sediment bowl allows fuel to seep by. I've decided to eliminate the sediment filter and install a ball valve with hopefully a better inline filter. I put in a better needle and seat from Roberts carb and double checked my float setting.

Anything else I should check while I have the tank off?

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#3 ·
I've no experience with that particular product, but I've used a product called Red-Kote on many motorcycle and tractor gas tanks with very good results. The trick is to get it clean and dry. Knock out as many large rust particles as possible....I usually toss about (6) 3/4" nuts into the tank and shake the fire out of it in every direction.

Then use a magnet to retrieve the nuts and rust particulate that has been knocked loose, then a long snout on an air compressor, then a 1/2" gas line duct taped into my shop vac hose. Snaking the smaller hose you can reach the tight spots better than the big vac hose.

I follow that with a good soapy water slosh and rinse then with the petcock removed a hair dryer is set up blowing into the tank fill for 24 hours.

THEN use the Red-Kote or other preferred sealer.

I'm sure a lot of guys use different techniques, but this works for me and when you get it perfected your variation will work also. I believe eventually there will be a liner failure, but try your best to get it clean to start with and you'll have better results.

I did try electrolysis the inside of my last Allis tank with pretty good results too. But it was messy and time consuming. The set up is critical with this one though and time consuming to do it safely.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Like Wendell, I've used the Red Kote with good success. From what I understand the Por 15 is the same type product. Getting as much of the rust you can out is a big key. I take a box of 100 1/2" nuts and pour into the tank, secure the lid well, strap it to a tractor rear wheel, and take a ride for about half an hour, or so. Then shake, blow out, vacuum, and wash what I can get out, and let it dry good. Then blow out and vacuum again. I actually raked a whole hayfield with a particularly rusty tank off an old rototiller strapped to the wheel.
Be cautious about putting too much of a filter on. Remember these are gravity flow systems. You don't want to reduce your flow to a drip. ;)
 
#5 ·
Good points thank you. This is extremely time consuming! I'm on the cleaning phase now soon I'm gonna start the metal etching phase. Luckily I'm in no particular hurry.

Do any of you know what this is for?

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/Mustang65432/Mobile%20Uploads/20160211_132219_zpsjiwgrflf.jpg[/IMG[/URL]

Lastly, I know it's recommended to use a 10w30 weight oil for this tractor, but is it permissible to use a lighter weight oil like a 5w30 in colder temps?

Thanks!!
 
#7 ·
I use POR 15.
Good stuff, follow the directions you need to use the marine clean and Etching cleaning.

The tank I am working know I had to use 1/2 gallon of carb cleaner to get the tar removed.

also it is very important to make sure the is dry before you use the POR 15.
 
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