1941 model a john deere fan blade stopped turning whille I was bush hoggin - Page 7
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  1. #61
    Senior Member Wi11y's Avatar
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    That vid was taken with a 10" tablet. I created a square frame of sorts and attached it to the rear mount of the steering. A large rubber band kept it in the frame will driving. Pic below shows the frame mounted to the tractor. I didnt want to bolt it because I didnt want to have holes there for later. Also if I ever get to realize the hope of getting another tractor I will need the mount for that as well.


    The frame was set so I could twist the frame left or right to center the image. Unfortunately using this mount you can hear all the vibrations that are passed from the tractor to the camera. If you want I could post other pics of the frame for better clarity?
    Last edited by Wi11y; 03-22-2017 at 01:04 AM.
    If it isnt broken, dont repair it.

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  3. #62
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    Wi11y you can post some pictures if you have the time. The tractor ran good best I could tell. I am thinking that tractor is or was yours?

    Right now I am having trouble idling low. Every time I get idle speed low it wants to die.
    Sounds good till then. I am wondering if its the carburetor or the governor not kicking in.
    I may pull the governor gear to make sure it is in correctly, for weights and paddle. Other than not idling at low speeds and maintaining that speed I believe the tractor sounds better than it used to.
    Last edited by HawkEye; 03-23-2017 at 04:55 PM.
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  4. #63
    Senior Member Wi11y's Avatar
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    set the throttle where you go for normal run. Take your finger and gently rotate the bell crank that you use to set the idle to higher rpm. If the governor is working you will feel the governor trying to lower the rpm. Easiest way I know of.

    James Howland would know how to set it correctly.
    If it isnt broken, dont repair it.

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  6. #64
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    I do not have a super slow idle yet but is a low idle.

    I got the idle where it is pretty good and the upper range also.
    I have not yet measured actual rpm.
    I may yet do that if I get the right tool.

    There is heavy paint on my carburetor. I could see the 'D' in made. I took that for 'D' in idle. The other letters were open to any interpretation.

    Ready, shoot, aim, shoot again.

    Today I got a magnifier and saw that it was the 'D' in 'made in usa'.
    That was the load screw.
    On the other side was the idle screw.
    That made the adjusting work pretty well. Then I tweaked some from the idle at 1 3/4 and then load at 1 turns out from all the way in.

    I have the DLTX 53 carburetor.

    Governor seems to be working though there is not much of a load till I get it moving to really see it work.
    Last edited by HawkEye; 03-28-2017 at 04:49 AM.
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  7. #65
    Senior Member Wi11y's Avatar
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    If I remember correctly and James Howell will have to correct me. Yet the letter series didnt exactly purr on idle. They did tend to miss sometimes and was the reason that the # series (ie the 40, 50, and 60) had a redesigned manifold and carb to try and resolve the ragged idle. Something about on idle one side starved for fuel because of the distance or some such thing.
    If it isnt broken, dont repair it.

  8. #66
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    John Deere model a 1941 slant dash wiring

    John Deere model a 1941 slant dash wiring

    I have been rewiring all with 10 gauge wire. I will post a few pictures that complement the useful pictures that James posted early in this thread. Many times when I search for help I want it for my particular tractor.

    My light switch has a resistor. As I understand it, the 4 wire regulator does not require that wired up for charging the 6 volt battery. There is the generator battery terminal that will deliver enough charging current to the battery. I will use the light switch only for lights. Am I missing something here? Or is there some charging advantage to have the light switch connected to the ammeter also?

    The light switch has L, B, F label terminals. When I got the tractor the F light terminal was connected to the L terminal on the generator.

    I have not completed all under the dash connector soldering on the new wiring. When I do I will polarize the generator. I believe my generator is good per my motoring test on it on the table. Right now I intend to have lights circuit separate from charging circuit and not use the fused wire that went from the light switch to the ammeter.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  9. #67
    Senior Member Wi11y's Avatar
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    The resistor is for your low beam headlights. It cuts the power in half dimming the light
    On my 60 the switch had the letters of I-L-B-D

    I= Ignition (points and condenser)
    L= Light on back of seat shown white for back up ability
    B= Bright lights and seat back would now be red
    D= Dim lights and seat back red
    If it isnt broken, dont repair it.

  10. #68
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    I appreciate that information Wi11y.
    So mine might be L and B like yours.
    I will see if I can get low and high out of these wires.
    Seems I stay confused about this wiring.
    The F would have been field I guess.
    I will put regulator L terminal to the F terminal on the light switch, which is the way it came to me.


    I have the wiring mostly ready. Just trying to get right length so as not to have too much slank.
    I sanded many contact points for the wiring.
    I polarized the generator today and cleaned and reset plugs and points.
    I started it on 6 volts though did not have the belt on.
    Last edited by HawkEye; 04-03-2017 at 09:53 PM.
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  11. #69
    Senior Member Wi11y's Avatar
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    Maybe this will help.
    a_wire.JPG
    If it isnt broken, dont repair it.

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